ROLLER

@cyberwolfie @Imgonnatrythis agree that Freecad learning curve is steep. I balked and ended up using Fusion360 (non commercial). I found it to be more friendly and have tutorials I liked. I like the idea of using an LLM to code in something like OpenSCAD though.

@KiloGex you need to tune your printer for the cold. Exposure times need to be longer and rise times slower. The set reaction is slower and the resin more viscous.
I managed with my printer in similar temps. Clean up is also more difficult in lower temps. I don’t have the link I used, others may suggest.

@sic_semper_tyrannis check this out. https://m.youtube.com/@AuroraTech/videos. Matter of fact reviews that certain don’t hype

@WolfLink @CheeseNoodle I have and Ender 3 S1. On my old CR10 I had similar opinion to you on the bl touch. Since I upgraded the firmware on the Ender some of the new bed leveling stuff has been a handbags. I couldn’t do without it now. Huge reduction in faff.

@Krauerking yeah, yuck. The two point with Calcium chloride gives this insight. It has Relative humidity of around 33. If the offsets are constant then they may be worth using, with the ick factor of course. If the offsets don’t make sense then the detectors are shot and fit for the bin.
You can get calcium chloride at the hardware store, it’s used as Desiccant for damp areas.

@Krauerking ah but you can measure the offset. A two point calibration should cover your measurement range. Not ideal but you could get a reading.

@Krauerking you could look at calibrating the hygrometers or at least the offset.
https://www.stevejenkins.com/blog/2014/06/how-to-calibrate-a-hygrometer-humidity-sensor-using-the-salt-test/
Two point calibration with calcium chloride and sodium chloride might be even more accurate

@Krauerking @PlasticExistence they’ll have subtly different drying profiles. Silica gel had a higher capacity but will maintain a generally higher relative humidity. Check the graph here out https://www.impakcorporation.com/desiccants
Activated alumina doesn’t appear to be as effective as molecular sieve at low humidity from a lit. search.

You should check for air leaks in the system first. When I lose Desiccant this is usually why.

P. S. Silica gel can be regenerated.

@slug @Krauerking there are some out there. Can’t say I looked to closely but I wasn’t terribly impressed.

@Krauerking my opinion is no. For many things you can find a model on line. Much of the challenge can be getting the printer to work as you wish, so modelling might not be first on the to do list.

@WolfLink @papalonian yeah, something like this but you might try. MS 3D Builder is out is still around our even good old Meshmixer!

Alternatively you could try adding a plane and extrusion this downwards on blender, Meshmixer etc

@nautilus @dlatch this conversation degenerated quickly…

@bdonvr you’ve probably heard this before… But magnetic PEI build plate is the best adhesion I’ve had.
Used glass on my CR10S but it’s night and day vs PEI on the ender 3 S1 plus.
Keeping it clean is key but copious quantity of IPA and a very light sand has worked so far.

@CarbonAlpine Amazing model. Did you publish anywhere? I’d like to print for a full size mock up horse I made.

@MissJinx there are a few but some are just rebadged versions of other slicers. Prusa/Orca and Slicer are two I have tried.

@MissJinx I’ve had issues with some slicers not coping with vase mode.

Did you try changing the vase mode settings?

Some models don’t work so well on vase mode. Usually with steep overhangs.

You might try a different slicer?

@andyspam this may be of some use. The YouTube channel I liked. https://auroratechchannel.com/

@AlexanderTheGreat have you tried 3D Builder on windows?

I’ve found it to be complimentary to Meshmixer. It has a nice combine function to simplify complex models.

@AlexanderTheGreat it’s old and cranky, but Meshmixer is still something I use.

Let’s you split and combine as well as align

https://meshmixer.com/

@RegalPotoo @Wilshire good point. Release agents are used for casting concrete. They look to be oil and water mix so I’m guessing most plastics would be compatible.
Also has to be a clear path out for the print/concrete.