Hammering the model off is how I lost a quarter inch of glass out of my bed haha thats when I switched to PEI and just flex the plate to remove stuff now. PETG and glass never really got along for me though and I primarily print that on my 3.

Correct it turns it all metal, I just remember being back and forth on what else I needed to buy at that point and really just a good heatbrake does wonders, no larger heat sink or anything at least not until you start changing other stuff up.

Images don’t directly load for me so I only saw a few (copy pasted to browser).

It’s going to depend on what you want to do with it and at what point you’re happy. I did the following with mine and then heavily borrowed from it for my Ender 5 Pro that’s enclosed printing Polycarbonate Nylon and ASA for automotive parts:

• Ferrules for all screw terminals that are using wire currently. It is dangerous to not have these and they are super easy to install, plenty of videos on how to do it I bought a kit with the crimp tool for like $15 and your house won’t burn down lol. Make sure the connection between the wire and crimped ferrule is tight, if it’s loose at all remove it and do a new one.

• Skr e3 v1.2 main board (this came with it when I bought it, buy something else you can’t do some more modern stuff like G34 with this I don’t believe, my Ender 5 Pro is just stock here).

• bltouch, crtouch, the printed one that reuses the Z endstop, whatever one you will want some sort of bed probe to both reliably home the printer and allow you to auto level the bed.

• Silicone bed spacers. Stock springs are crap, level silicone bed spacers once and you’ll never touch those knobs again (make sure there’s a little tension on the knobs when you’re levelling them initially though or they will back off!)

• double sided PEI sheet with high temp magnet. The hictop you have is exactly what I have on both. Much more reliable adhesion I clean it with dawn dish soap and a wet paper towel then rinse and dry with a dry paper towel and I don’t need a glue stick for ASA. Allows for higher temps on the bed as well (how I preheat the Ender 5 Pros chamber typically, though the flat side is starting to delaminate a little after a year). Glass is ok but if you’re impatient at all you’ll rip a chunk out of it. Also never use that damn scraper everyone I know who has including myself has a scar from it lol

• rPi3 with Klipper firmware (biggest upgrade, takes effort, might be able to do sonic pad easier but I’ve never used one). Sending prints straight to the printer and having a web UI is extremely worth it. Add a cheap webcam and you can hook into a selfhosted Obico for AI failure detection. I used an adxl345 for resonance compensation and it helped a ton along with pressure advance (using Ellis’ pressure advance tool not the Klipper cube print you measure) and the print quality is amazing at speed compared to the garbage that used to come off of my printer.

• Buck converter in a frame mounted case off of main PSU, steps to micro USB connector to power the Pi off of the PSU, more of a nice to have so everything powers on together, try to remember to power Klipper down in the web UI before shutting the red switch off though so you aren’t killing power to it when shutting down.

• 90mm noctua fan and shroud for the Power Supply since that tiny fan was loud as hell even with the shroud

• Speeddrive printed direct drive with a pancake stepper so the motor clears the frame (I’ve done this on two printers, there is no reason to buy an expensive direct drive setup). I got a BMG clone with this and it has been decent, the grub screw came loose once so I used blue thread locker on it and it’s been fine for a few years. It’s extremely well balanced weight wise compared to some of the super front heavy ones you’ll find on Amazon etc.

• Either get a filament dryer and print a filament guide that’s raised enough for the Speeddrive to clear it when at full height. Or rotate the filament spool 90 degrees with a new mount that’s raised enough for when the printer height is maxed to retain the full height.

• If not using a filament dryer, Print a spool holder that uses bearings you purchase so it moves more freely than the stock one where the spool is just dragging.

• Bimetal heatbrake from Slice engineering. Helps avoid jams, allow printing higher temp filaments. You do NOT need an all metal hotend with this, use the stock red one it’s all you need. My Ender 5 came with a Microswiss all metal hotend that is significantly less easy to work with using the same materials and jams occasionally. I used their boron nitride paste as well but no idea if it’s actually better than others the tube has lasted me a while.

• Upgraded nozzle if you need, I did stainless steel for one printer and hardened steel on another that prints abrasives and carbon fibers, stainless needs a bit more heat (~260-270C for PETG on stainless at 100mm/s 3.5k accel)

• Gulf coast robotics heater block temperature sensor. Glass bead one isn’t supposed to be used over a certain temp so upgraded this at the same time as the heatbrake for 300 degree C filaments

• Noctua 4020 fan for hotend and dual 5015 blower fans with the Satsana duct that has removable vents. This made the printer nearly silent when done with the power supply fan. I print PETG around 20-30% fanspeed for the blowers and have never had it jam with the bimetal heatbrake but I have never ran this stock.

• Cable chains to clean up the appearance mostly and prevent snags.

• Dual Z motors. If you have a good main board that can level this (G34 I think?) this will make your printer way more reliable. If you don’t, print X axis gantry tramming blocks where you raise Z to around 50mm tall then place blocks under each side of the beam, shut steppers off then slowly twist the stepper motors on each side the same direction to lower the gantry onto the blocks, one side will usually reach a block well before the other. Once lowered, hit home and then quickly remove both blocks and allow it to home, your gantry should now be square and ready to level the printbed. This is a good time to check the wheels for the X axis and make sure they all feel right and not too loose/tight as they were likely adjusted with this skewed initially.

Hopefully that’s it, it’s a lot of stuff, for me most of it was spare parts or relatively inexpensive and done over a period of time which was much more doable than buying a more expensive or even new printer upfront. The upside is I know how it works inside out and any issues I can figure out within a minute or two usually. You don’t need to go this way but it worked extremely well for me so just wanted to throw it out there so you could pull ideas from it.

I would research these each separately, ones where you start relocating things you may need to extend or replace a harness with a longer one. Apart from that this took me about a year of just researching and trying things to figure out but it’s been an extremely reliable setup and a lot of it is printed which is a bonus. I can probably find links to stuff if you need as well I saved most of it I believe.

Got this when I went to play fucking Max Payne 3 a few months ago. Why the hell does a 10 year old name need a rockstar account and why is it such a pain in the dick to restore access? It was easier to just pirate the fucking game and actually own it.

Have you gotten any of the mystery boxes from them?

I wouldn’t use it for security, use VMs if you need isolation.

I used Distrobox for various dev projects on Fedora Atomic and it worked great for that. I did a separate homedir mainly just to avoid dumping a bunch of crap into my real home but definitely have the expectation that anything you install has full access to the system.

I run FreeCAD via Distrobox as well since the flatpak performance was pretty bad and it’s wayyyy faster which is nice and preferable to rpm-ostree in my instance.

This looks great, I have EA via Bottles currently for BF3/4 would love to switch to this. Totally get why it doesn’t support BF3, BF3 using a browser launcher for the PC version was insanely stupid

I run this one on my T480 and it was honestly refreshing. I don’t believe the Microsoft store is even enabled by default which was a really nice change of pace from all the crap it’s usually got. Just enable what you want… how it should be but instead, “muh CoPilot”.

Soulseek via slskd on my NAS to fill in the missings from Lidarr works really well. Gluetun with a VPN and sharing everything as it grows

Photographing fairly flat angle with your phone and then scaling the imported image using a dimension such as the diameter of a screw hole or something will get you VERY close as well for more prohibitive items!

3D Scanner is really worth while if you do a lot but that’s a bit of a barrier to entry for most people currently but hopefully follows the trend of printers getting better and more affordable.

I do this on my Xtool M1 with both the blade and laser cutter, both seem to work fantastic though the laser cutter leaves a little burnt residue.

Super easy to come up with the trace, just throw your part on a flatbed scanner, scan and trace it out in FreeCAD and send the SVG out for it to cut.

BBK actually doesn’t make a 61mm gasket (I believe for 3502 part number), it still has 58mm holes so you’re really better off just going custom when it’s $20 for the wrong gasket lol that you have to hack up anyways.

I love the reduced time to get things with this approach. I just keep enough of different types of FelPro gasket paper on hand and have them cut as needed, way faster than Amazon!

My friend has been running a Nylon IAC spacer ln his turbo 351W foxbody with two laser cut gaskets to go with it for over a year with hard racing in high temps and all of it has held up great.

May not directly help you but might work for someone! Going to try to remember this from memory it’s been a couple months since I’ve had to do it. Both of my printers are custom so this is what I do each time I have a new filament/type. It sounds like a lot but it’s maybe an hour of mostly wait time and I don’t do it again for the same type of spool unless I have an issue.

This is all based on running Klipper firmware and PrusaSlicer/SuperSlicer and their built in tools for calibrating so YMMV:

1. Create a new Filament (and new Print Settings dependent on the type of plastic, if necessary) in PrusaSlicer. For example maybe I am creating a new Print Setting for “ABS” if it’s my first time printing that type of plastic by cloning PLA, then add a new filament for the coloration. For example I might name it “Polylite ASA - Black” that way I can differentiate from the type of plastic, the manufacturer, AND the color. I typically will base the Type of an existing (e.x. PLA) and then tweak as needed (usually adjusting speed values).

2. Temperature tower, look for both quality AND strength, you can make a plastic visually print great and have almost zero adhesion.

3. Adjust values on Ellis3DP’s Pressure advanced tool to match the desired printers parameters and then upload and run the test. I like this one a LOT more than Klippers

4. Set the pressure advance value for the new filament in PrusaSlicer.

Visually on the side of PrusaSlicer in advanced mode you would see:

• Print Settings: printer1 ASA (prefixing or suffixing is necessary if you have multiple printers)

• Filament: Polylite ASA - Black - printer1 (also necessary for multiple printers as you may have different settings between different printers)

• Printer: printer1

Generally speaking I only really need to get the temperature and pressure advance right and it’s dead reliable and I can print at speed. I have tuned PLA, PETG, TPU, ASA, Nylon, CF Nylon and Polycarbonate following these steps and it’s pretty set and forget.

Nice I haven’t needed to relicense my ACF since I have a lifetime one but I am awaiting the eventual rug pull like DeliciousBrains did after WPEngine bought and enshittified them. Really feels like they just tried to secure as many “core” plugins for themselves which I’m really wary about.

Disable the license check in the plugin, you’ll have to get the code first somehow though.

Better off avoiding them as much as possible though, each one you add increases the already somewhat large range of potential attack vectors.

Qbittorrent via a container and web UI on my NAS, lets me use it as a backend for *arrs as well as anything else, just have tag based directories for it so Software goes into one folder and TV movies etc in their respective folders.

I personally like the setup a lot since I can always be a seeder even well after my ratio is hit.

slskd hooked up to this as well to share everything music wise, gives me a nice way to reconcile stuff Lidarr can’t find and shares it all back for anyone to browse so hopefully helps someone downloadv something they’re searching for a FLAC of

nzb360 on Android for management as needed, it hooks into Qbittorrent easily and gives me a nice place to do some quicker tasks for my overall infra

So for me personally, Jellyfin isn’t worth actually paying to back up all 16+TB, but my Nextcloud absolutely is. I do Restic for the data I want with a pretty long retention and have had great luck with restoring off of it

Yep FORScan let me set the VIN on an electronic power steering rack (because that’s totally cool to require so you can’t just replace it at home right?).

I beleive it is actually IDS just reverse engineered and more accessible, unfortunately not every maker has one of those out there it really should be legally required when you buy the car to at least get the software to “own” it.

The same reason they won’t let you buy the dealership scan software for under 10k. Almost every maker has an in house scanner and due to standards they only need to provide certain data to non dealer level tools and I believe the standard only exists for gas powered vehicles that need to provide OBD2 data. Plenty of makers (BMW is horrible about this) stuff away data where a normal obd scanner just won’t access and it’s gotten much worse with the overuse of CANBus (I sure love when my trunk lid sensor prevents my fucking car from starting).

Thats where your snapon and other third party scanners start bringing a gap, but even those are extremely pricey and need to be updated constantly and even those usually won’t do EVERYTHING.

Fwiw the cheapest and best way I’ve found is basically to pirate the dealer software and get a compatible knockoff scanner (vxdiag for example). I have Ford IDS and a couple others this way but assume that the software is gonna install something malicious and dedicate an old Thinkpad or something to it.

Depending on the age of your vehicle something like Torque Pro is extremely useful. I have mine monitoring transmission temp, long and short term fuel trims, O2 sensor signals, voltage, mass air speed, intake temp. It’s more than enough data to see something coming long before it becomes an issue.

I deployed a ton of changes wish me luck

I switched off of BSD about a decade ago so I can’t weigh in on it’s current state at all. I generally avoid Flatpaks at least in Qubes. I do have a template that supports it but it’s only running on my Music VM currently which is offlined, the rest follow the traditional template+AppVM approach which I keep updated on a schedule.

I have never operated under the assumption that flatpaks are sandboxed or secure because they really aren’t. It’s a system to bundle packages with your software without contaminating the host environment. The big issue really is in the package maintainers shipping outdated packages, containers were never a security measure in my eyes due to the shared kernel and especially not with the default share of the homedir for flatpaks. If you need that kind of isolation you really need a VM. I treat them as a standard install personally without any expectations of isolation, and really with Silverblue I’m leaning more towards installing apps directly in Distrobox and exporting them to the host, it still has the shared homedir issue but you’re getting up to date packages in a desired environment that you fully control (this is both good and bad since maintenance is on you).

I think it’s a good idea if there were stricter requirements, maybe vulnerability scanning as a requirement to releasing and pulling stale flatpaks after a period of no releases to start. It’s difficult to appease everyone in this situation and breaking changes would be inevitable so it is difficult to fully solve now that it already exists as it does. I do think supply chain attacks will only get more common though so they definitely need work.

As someone who does a lot of infrastructure work on AWS, Azure, GCP etc, it’s just about the only operating system I’ll use at this point for that kind of work. The isolation I get per-client and per-environment is unmatched. There’s a little more upfront work to get everything the way you like (putting ZSH configs on /etc/skel of your templates for example) but once it’s set up it’s really solid. Having the windows named and color coded really helps me keep from crossing wires when stuff gets chaotic and I’m jumping around a lot.

It’s obviously MUCH worse at certain things such as CAD, but they’re still workable in it. HVMs can remedy this pretty easily but it’s not quite as seamless as the standard Qubes unfortunately but it’s progressed a LOT in a short amount of time so we’ll see what the future holds!