Double check the settings in your printer and slicer that “screen brightness”, “screen power”, “max power” or something to that effect is set to 100%. I’ve seen some default to 70%-80%, the theoretical reason being that reducing power to the screen can lengthen its lifespan… however, afaik these claims have not been backed up by data, and the logical counterargument is that any lifespan gains will be offset by the increased length of time the screen is on. Even if you can squeeze a few extra prints out of the screen before it dies, you’re making all your prints take way longer than necessary.

For reference, this is the recommended printing settings chart provided by anycubic for their standard gray resin; the recommended exposure time for your printer at default layer height is 2.5 seconds. If you’re using 100% power, you’re more than doubling the normalexposure.

exposure, which is set at 6 seconds

Woah, don’t know if this could be causing your problem, but this seems really high. I used to used a Mono X, highest exposure time would be in the 3s range. Are you maybe printing at reduced brightness?

Your printer has the hidden ability of being able to melt plastic 😉

I’m also confused by what you’re trying to do. When you say you found “the step file for a generic filament slicer”, what is the model actually of? When you say “combine the two”, what do you mean? Are these two parts that fit together that you want to make one model, is it two separate things that you just want attached as one piece, are they two variations of the same thing that you want parts of one on the other, etc…

Couple days late, but I just remembered this post and dug it back up to make a suggestion if you (or anyone else) decide to remix it with the charging slot, to help retain the model’s excellent printability.

Cutting a squared notch will create a steep overhang that will be difficult to print. But, if you instead cut a large circular hole through the bottom center, it will create a shallow taper that will be easier to accomplish, it will also cut down on filament usage 😃

If you posted this on Thingiverse, someone in the comments would complain about the supports being too hard to remove and the model being oriented the wrong way.

they mean that it comes already too moist from the factory?

It certainly can be. PETG LOVES water in my experience and there’s only so much that can be controlled.

On the rare occasion I have to use PETG I usually just accept that it’s gonna be poppy unless I put the spool in with my chicken tendies.

Nice! Looks good.

I would make two horizontal slots along the bottom of the tray, maybe 2-3cm wide and as long as you’re able to print on your printer (pro tip: rotate long skinny models 45° to get ~40% extra length by printing corner to corner). Or even better, if you’ve got some spare sheet metal laying around throw those in the slots.

It is, but you’re being incredibly hostile (and vaguely xenophobic) towards someone who was literally just trying to chat about an issue you were having with a product you purchased and were disappointed in.

I’m still curious as to what you determined the problem to be with your printer, but I’m assuming you never figured it out, threw it in a closet, and now bitch in 3d printing communities about how bad their hobby is.

You seem incredibly confident in your diagnosis for someone who can’t get a very common filament to work on printers that have been using it for years. Care to elaborate more than, “you’re completely wrong, except for where you’re right”? What was causing the problem?

It sounds like it may have been reaching a thermal shutoff point and killing itself. Maybe the temp you were aiming for was close to the limit, and slight variations caused it to go over and “save” itself.

The only thing that might keep a printer that prints PLA well from printing PETG well is if it’s an old printer without a heated bed. Save for that (and potentially faulty hardware or miscalibrated settings), there’s not really anything that “can’t” print PETG.

I actually have some PLA+ rolls that print at higher speeds temps than my PETG rolls 🤷🏾‍♂️

Oh, I agree completely. I don’t think the tech as-is should be being priced at all. What I’m saying is, even if this product does come to fruition, it likely will still be incredibly expensive compared to normal filament, but the amount one would need to use in a project is very small comparatively.

Of course that’s insanely expensive compared to our economy packs of standard PLA, but consider how much conductive filament one would need in comparison to normal filament for a project.

I’m aware that everything is in the realm of hypotheticals and prototypes, but even if the final product is significantly more expensive than standard filament, it’s not like you’ll need to be able to print entire parts out of it, just the electric traces.

I haven’t looked to see if one already exists.

But, like someone else said, this would be relatively easy to model.

I would go about it in a different way; here’s a quick drawing:

Make the loop for the plug side slightly smaller than the diameter of the cable so it’s a super snug fit, and the other side with a large enough gap that you can easily push the cable through it.

It’s been a little while since I’ve printed anything that needed specific settings like this, but I’m pretty sure that Cura’s combing/ avoid printed areas settings will do this for you. Though I don’t have any experience with one wall thickness parts and this setting.

Emily is my favorite. She’s got some really fun original ideas, and watching her videos perfectly captures that “it works!” feeling when you’re working on something that really shouldn’t work.

not boiling hot

Depends. I’ve definitely used boiling water with some tight fits. It’s only half the temperature of most common filament printing range.

If Bambu were out there suing people for stuff they didn’t make, I’d be more in line with calling them thieves. But the work they have used is still freely available to anyone who wants to use it. Similar to how Sovol sells what is essentially a preassembled Voron; I’m an engineer, I wouldn’t buy one because I’d rather do it myself. But to the hundreds of thousands of people who wouldn’t want to spend a week building a printer, but love the design and concept of the Voron, they now have the option. Everyone with their Voron can continue using it, and everyone who wants to just buy one can.

I mean, look at the computer industry/ hobby. Started off with a bunch of enthusiats building crap in their garage. Computers became important, businesses started taking note, and now when the average person thinks of a home computer, they think “Dell, HP, Apple”. But all the other stuff didn’t just go away. There’s still a huge, thriving community of people who slapped their stuff together and run the jankiest, least proprietary OS possible on them. Nothing’s stopping them from doing what they want to do, but now everyone else can do it, too.

Bambu changed everything for the worst and forced everyone to lower expectations and business practices.

I’m sorry, Bambu forced people to LOWER their expectations…? What expectations are you talking about?

Bambu made everyone want a printer that prints insanely fast, with incredible quality and zero hassle. I have a friend who is the least tech savvy person I’ve ever met, he genuinely barely knows how to use a computer, but his Bambu prints circles around my heavily modified and upgraded Neptune 3.

If your “expectations” are literally just, “it’s open source and I can do whatever I want” then yeah a Bambu won’t meet those expectations. But that’s a far cry from “everyone’s” expectations, and I definitely wouldn’t say that they “forced” other businesses to follow suite.

Bambu is making printing accessible to non-enthusiasts. Their products aren’t always going to align with what old-heads are looking for, but the benefit of knowing what you’re doing is that you can decide for yourself not to go that route. Nothing on God’s green Earth can stop you from sourcing parts and building a Voron that does exactly what you want, no matter what Bambu does, but now that 3D printing is entering the mainstream, the mainstream needs a way to print, and Bambu is there to fill that gap in the market.