I’ve tried a bunch of times, but haven’t really found anything that’s been particularly useful as a steamdeck 3d printed accessory. Probably the closest I’ve come is a steamdeck gridfinity storage solution for my desk, and a stand to play if I felt like using an xbox controller instead of holding the deck.

Here’s the ones linked from the video, nothing in there was super interesting. Best one of the bunch was the charger insert, but I’ve found it to be annoying to use. I just go back to a small bag to stuff the charger into.

Steam Deck Drop Protector (LupusWorax): https://www.printables.com/model/254680-steam-deck-lifesaver-drop-protection
Carrying Case Insert (Strider460): https://www.printables.com/model/202185-steam-deck-carrying-case-insert
Dock Cable Cover (yugi): https://www.printables.com/model/378549-steam-deck-dock-cable-cover
Charger Dock (Strider460): https://www.printables.com/model/230276-steam-deck-charger-dock
Steam Pal (Froggerdog): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5511683
Joystick Guards (MarkWithASea_240810): https://www.printables.com/model/723941-steam-deck-stick-guard-split

Yeah, after he sexually harassed a flight attendant and laughed about it on Twitter.

I have a watt meter monitoring the power usage of my NAS. Out of all my checks, I assume that’s how I’m going to know I get hacked before anything else.

GFCI protects against a difference in current between the hot and neutral lines. This is intended to sense that the energy is going to the outlet, but returning through a different path, like through a meat bag full of mostly water.
This is usually for wet locations like bathrooms and kitchens, to stop water from completing a circuit.

A short circuit would be too much current going through the circuit, and would be stopped by a standard circuit breaker.
These would be for every circuit, to protect against overloading the wires and outlets.

An AFCI would detect if arcs are being generated in a line, like if there was a loose wire causing sparking somewhere. This would typically cause a very hot spot in the line which could cause a fire, but not necessarily cause a short circuit or an electrocution risk.
These are usually only required in bedroom spaces to reduce the chance of a fire happening in the room you are sleeping in.

Those are all different from a surge protector, which is intended to stop high voltage spikes, which typically occur from issues outside the house.
These are typically used, in various types, to protect sensitive electronics and expensive appliances.

Four different types of protection, for four different types of problems.

I like it. Cheap and easy.

Looks like a little bulge in the joint, so you’d have to be a little careful about how it feeds, but I think it would be pretty easy to check.

Also like how you don’t need to completely unspool one side to make it work.

Yeah, that looks amazing, and it’s really quick. That’s a huge improvement!

I think you might be surprised by how far 3d printing has come, Really none of that is a concern anymore, even with basic printers. Heck, most printers don’t even have an option for bed leveling.

I’m confused about signal stories. I tried to use it while I was on vacation, but it looked like I had to push it to people? You definitely have to whitelist who can see it.

I’m not sure the lidar tech is really that big of a game changer. Sure, the bambu printers do that layer detection, but so does the Anker. A lot of other ones can use a webcam to do print failure detection.

But if you’re not running 100 printers, you can just check the camera, or poke your head in the room every once in a while to see if anything failed.

I do like the idea of adding the “this product replaces X, Y, or Z” in the info card without needing to click on it.

It’s a tough balance, you don’t want a whole page for each one. Maybe if there was a clear list of tags so it’s easier to understand even what category they’re talking about?

For example:
Penpot
Design freedom meets open-source collaboration

I really don’t know what this product category even is. Is it for web layout? Is it a drawing program? Is it for CAD?

Love the list, but scrolling through, the one liners don’t mean much for a lot of these.

The descriptions are just too short and vague to even understand what a lot of them actually do.

I went from a Creality printer to a Prusa Mk4s on the last black friday sale. What sold me was that as they make new machines, you can just buy a kit to upgrade to the next version, instead of needing to buy a whole new printer. They’re also based in the EU, so even if they wanted to, they couldn’t do anything too bad in regards to privacy.

Doesn’t matter tho, cause I won’t turn on the cloud printing stuff, since I don’t see any benefit. Everything can be done exactly the same way without requiring external services.

Just sounds like they’re saying the “slippery slope” is false, but everything else stated was true.

3d party accessories are being disabled, and you can only use network connectivity if you connect to the cloud. They’ll have a solution for using Orca Slicer, but it still needs to phone home to work.

Glad I stayed away from Bambu and went with a printer that doesn’t need anything outside my network to use all the features I paid for.

I’m kinda surprised there haven’t been hands on reviews yet. I’m also kinda glad cause it means they aren’t sending out special review units to everyone just to get good stories out.

It’s 100% optional. I use prusalink, which is a web server local to the printer, and it also connects to home assistant to get me phone notifications when prints are done.

I get that it’s not for everyone, but I use home assistant and prusalink to do everything the cloud prusa connect does.

It doesn’t leave my network, it’s connected to physical Ethernet instead of WiFi, and I have zero outside connectivity requirements.

The only drawback is that I have one extra step instead of sending directly within prusa slicer.

Honestly, it’s been a better overall experience than using the cloud service, cause it doesn’t need to send any data over the Internet, just to download it back down to the printer.

I’m using an old laptop with the lid closed. Uses 10w.

All in, including my router, switches, modem, laptop, and NAS, I’m using 50watts +/- 5.

It does everything I need, and I feel like that’s pretty efficient.

I can’t wear them in vehicles because the polarization of the glasses through windshields make me car sick.

I don’t normally get car sick, so it’s only if I wear polarized lenses. I speculate it’s the light being changed as it goes through the tempered glass.

Well, if LTT is involved, then I probably want nothing to do with it.