I haven’t looked into the issue of PCIe lanes and the GPU.

I don’t think it should matter with a smaller PCIe bus, in theory, if I understand correctly (unlikely). The only time a lot of data is transferred is when the model layers are initially loaded. Like with Oobabooga when I load a model, most of the time my desktop RAM monitor widget does not even have the time to refresh and tell me how much memory was used on the CPU side. What is loaded in the GPU is around 90% static. I have a script that monitors this so that I can tune the maximum number of layers. I leave overhead room for the context to build up over time but there are no major changes happening aside from initial loading. One just sets the number of layers to offload on the GPU and loads the model. However many seconds that takes is irrelevant startup delay that only happens once when initiating the server.

So assuming the kernel modules and hardware support the more narrow bandwidth, it should work… I think. There are laptops that have options for an external FireWire GPU too, so I don’t think the PCIe bus is too baked in.

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Most key stuff is not on GitHub or GitHub is just a mirror. The heir apparent to Linux is Hartman and he moved to Europe a long time ago.

No mobile devices are safe. Those are all proprietary black boxes for hardware. If the shit hits the fan, it is back to dumb phones and x86 computers. Digital doomsday prepers are not sounding all that crazy right now IMO.

I have gotten weird interactions with rate limiting through GitHub because I will not whitelist their stalkerware collector server. They also pushed 2 factor to stalk and exploit through the only documented path they wanted people to take. I quit because of it.

It is more complicated than just price. It is ultimately an intuitive self awareness and scope thing. People lack depth to understand the details or ask others that do understand before they make a purchase. The majority of people are more oriented towards interpersonal interactions and experiential aspects of life in their fundamental functional thought. They struggle to see detail and nuances or question fixation and biases.

We still live in the early era of human tribal primitivism when it is quite easy to exploit tribal stupidity on multiple fronts. For some it is fixation from initial exposure or emotional brand perception, others it is impulsive availability, for others they are masochistic misers. Abstractive thinking and understanding is rare in humans, and the majority do not understand it or value it in others.

Walmart bikes are targeting misers first, but spontaneous availability and access, along with controlling the perception of what the low bar of the market is are major factors as well. Each of these three factors exploits a specific niche. Walmart is a rogue wholesale distributor selling directly to consumers using massive capital. They are privateers (legal pirates) in the retail market as are most big box stores. Piracy has always been a nice short term business model for gains. It just happens to be true that people of today like being raided raped and pillaged so long as it is done slowly enough without violence, the ship looks pretty and the pirates wear a suit. Even worse is when pirates become entrenched as monarchs and feudal lords. This is the next step in the evolution when piracy is normalized. Welcome to neo feudalism.

It is simply an entry level thing. You will find this in every market.

In a bike shop retail market I can sell you a serviceable bike for $500 that will last, or an $800 road bike you’ll actually ride. Still the majority of bikes sold come from places like Walmart where they are made of unserviceable junk and are mostly nonfunctional. These are rarely ever ridden and often thrown away. In the shop I’ll sell 20:1 on the cheapest model to the next options up the ladder.

It is strange to adapt to this kind of understanding at first, like just how skewed the real market is. I can target selling to clubs and teams but I can’t touch the the garbage bike market where most people reside.

I think we are at a point where the influx of people into 3d printing are not real Makers or have any aspirations to be.

The reality is that people are often simply stupid. They seem to think that saving a few bucks here or there is smart but are not bright enough to see that everyone doing the same thing are buying the junk product over and over. There is nothing more expensive than being a cheap miser.

Ultimately, the only person that can fix stupid is ourselves. One can only inspire others to learn but can never force them. You cannot fix stupid in others. In the USA, stupidity is political currency and we have a long tradition of poor education and standardized exploitation. It is the American dream.

I think LDO and Voron are the only super relevant open source torchbearers.

I am here sensei

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Chep is a good source for Ender setup and content: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsdc_0ZTXikARFEn2dRDJhg

If you would like to insult, be more direct. Otherwise reply with some substance instead of this hollow emotional nonsense. No one knows it all, nor are they static in capabilities. Attacking someone with passive aggressive unsubstantiated claims is worse than useless, toxic behavior.

The reason why people are herded into apps is because of the invasive potential for stalkerware that app devs are given. You don’t need to understand the underlying OS best practices because the app dev is given full access to the device. On LW, Photon and Alexandrite are quite nice in a mobile browser with an app-like experience, but without the invasive potential. Apps are like intimate roommates; choose carefully.

(As a mod) Sorry, it must have happened right as I went to bed. So it was the worst timing for a maximum delay. I have removed the duplicates.

I’m not sure why it happened but it probably has something to do with LW being on a very old version of Lemmy and not updating.

Thanks. The main thing with paint is to be absolutely obsessive about the prep details and sanding. I’ve trained two apprentices. The hardest thing to defeat is one’s internal expectations of time. It is only right and ready when it is perfect even when redoing that primer for the fifth time feels like murder and the issue is only the size of a dime, it simply does not matter. That dime will cost two days to fix when it shows through, and that knowledge must come first. I told everyone that ever worked for me, “sand it until you think you are done, then take a break, come back, and acknowledge you are finally halfway done. Then repeat this until I cannot find a single issue with the panel.”

The cool thing about ABS and ASA is that you can sand it to a polish. Just treat it like a metal polish job but use automotive polishes instead of rouge like for metals. There are usually no inclusions from the print lines in my tests and it polishes to a remarkable finish that looks like extra shiny Lego’s. In fact, if you take a fully polished part and break it, you will likely find that the surface is changed for nearly a millimeter down. It happens even when the polish is done meticulously by hand with no buffer to heat up the surface. I’m not entirely sure what is happening with that one, but based on how it sounds and feels I bet there are better mechanical properties as well.

From my time around automotive racing, polished ABS/ASA feels like parts that are finished to reduce stress risers like how pistons and rods feel different after a similar polishing operation. I haven’t tested it, but that is how the parts felt to me. That might be one to try out, even with mechanical and functional prints. If you happen to snag some sandpapers, it only takes a sheet of 600 or 800, as a baseline where this has removed absolutely everything below regardless of what was below, then use 1500 to knock this down. Finally, toothpaste can nearly replace an automotive compound. No joke I have used it on cars in a pinch with a heavy cut pad. For a mirror it will take an intermediate cutting stage before the final polish. For something like a print that is already sitting at 1500 grit, toothpaste will get more shine than a typical new Lego. Just use an old sock and let the compound do the work just like with a buffer and pad.

The little Proxxon pen sander is also a must have device for print sanding in general. It is worth the spend. You only really need the sander without the power supply though. The supply is the scam. Just clip the wire and add a DC barrel jack to any old 12v 1A wall wart. Their sandpaper is really high quality and worth it, but some decent double sided tape will work to make your own. You can also make your own sandpaper holders to get into awkward places.

I don’t know that I could actually finish a Voron build now. That is the real underlying truth of it. I am physically declining and my up time is very limited over the last coupe of years. That has kinda quashed my EDA and circuit etching projects too, sadly. Even my riding is suffering. I did 26m every day for ~8 years after the broken neck and back, but now 16m every 2-3 days is all I can do and still sleep 4-6 hours at most. It is what it is… “Ya get what ya get and ya don’t pitch a fit.”

I’ve only gone through 2 rolls of the cheap Matterhackers house brand ABS and maybe a quarter roll of Prusa ASA. My primary curiosity was if ABS/ASA is an effective alternative to Prusament PC Blend. In my experiments, my primary use for ABS/ASA is for refinishing and polishing. I’m super familiar with ABS in pro auto body work I was doing before RepRap was even a thing. I actually specialized in plastics and small repairs in addition to airbrush and graphics work as a painter; liked the art, but work out of used car lots paid the bills.

I only made a little disk sander thing out of a box fan motor with a housing constrained by print bed dimensions, also some dremel drill press tooling, and some BB30 bicycle parts.

The disk sander thing was not very useful overall. The level of integrated design was extreme and impractical in most cases, but it proved to me that I could technically do it. That largely helped me avoid the desire to build a Voron. Plus I spent years huffing ABS fumes already. The bicycle stuff showed me that PC blend is still quite a bit better at holding a load in the real world. I designed a couple of parts with threads that hold the bearings in tension on the spindle of the bike crank. I’m certainly not in race shape any more, but I am still quite hard on bike stuff. Plus bikes are a great test bed as leg forces are unbalanced, the vibration is inconsistent, contaminants are random, and UV exposure is harsh.

Anyways, the prusament ASA doesn’t have as many issues as MH ABS, but the difference is not huge. If I was going to do automotive class finishing, that is the only time I would go out of my way to use ABS/ASA. I could make it perfect on another level entirely than anything else I have played with.

I blocked NSQ bc of an active bot as a mod.

Lemmy in general does not handle conceptual abstractions well at all. I think it is great to question the seemingly obvious subjects, and to poll user depth and intelligence regularly. I hate getting blindsided by someone asking stupid questions like this in real life and having to take the time to think out which of many angles I would like to address the issue from. I find it useful and healthy to see how others address such a question and how people respond to the various approaches. This is fundamental to the intuitive usefulness of NSQ and when that utility is hampered it effectively renders the community useless.

I rather ineffectively volunteered to take over the community myself when I encountered poor moderation from a bot with no accountable individual to address. Instead I block the community and consider it an embarrassment to exist.

Makes a huge difference with my junky TPU if it is dry or not.

I also have a massive stacked Lack (sp?) table with double legs. I put that stack with a MK3S+ into a 55 gallon trash bag and can print the entire build volume. The thing is, it has to be totally sealed off well and no traffic in the room that might disturb the thing in the slightest. I won’t even open a door to the room. I also let the bed heat for longer before the print starts. Lastly, I must design for ABS specifically and am very conscious of layer thickness transitions. I look at all filaments and designs as an optimization exercise for materials and process kinda thing. I design everything I print. So my advice is an abstraction of what is possible under similar constraints. Most files people share are not very well designed for 3d printing, or for material specific requirements/optimizations. I don’t recommend printing other people’s stuff unless you are forced to for some reason.

The primary issue with ABS is how heat is soaked into top layer/bottom layer transitions near any side walls. In most cases, just make a tapered transition over a long area and remove any top layers in places like interior surfaces. Designing tops sections that are rounded or hollow is another key, along with no supports based designs. Using exposed 3d cubic infill is how I get around a lot of the top layer heat issues.

If anyone is actually wanting to print ABS a lot, obviously just get a Voron.

ABS needs an enclosure for anything above around 10 layers. Even a room closed with it warm and no one inside is not enough to save an ABS print. Just the air from the moving tool head and the bed are enough to disturb a print and cause layer separation. An IKEA Lack table and a garbage bag over it is enough of an enclosure to count and get most prints alright. It stinks though.

TPU will have holes and look terrible unless you print out of a filament drier. You can dry the stuff a lot and print for around 45 minutes with it in open air before it will absorb enough moisture to start expanding steam in the melt zone and blowing holes in your print layers.