Just to make sure, all of your links need to be in quotes if they are not. The : in a url can make some yaml parsers think that it is another block, there are other URL safe characters in general that are special characters in yaml so it’s a good idea to put them in quotes.

In addition to everyone’s suggestions, have you tried rotating the part so it is at a 45 on the bed? This will keep the printer from accelerating as much in the Y direction since it is not a straight motion, I used to have to do that for tall prints on my Mk3 sometimes.

Also, if I were printing that part I would flip it over unless there is some reason you can’t. You might also get more rigidity using normal supports for the large surface facing the bed, might print faster too, tree supports for large areas take a while for me usually.

This is a cool idea! This sounds a lot like what DANTE and AES67 or AVB are used for in pro audio (mixing console sends multichannel and outputs can subscribe to one or more channels), maybe they have some ideas on timing sync which I think would be the hardest part as others have said, it is crazy how small of a jitter your brain can hear.

I remember your first post a year or so ago and dang you have been busy, it looks really great. I will definitely be installing this at home to organize product manuals and such.

Have you ever dried this filament? Silica beads won’t dry out filament, they will just keep the air in the box dry. I have definitely had to dry filament from the factory, especially PETG.

I don’t have anything to add but I am glad someone posts this every week, I always find something new, so please keep it up :D

Just to add my 2c, I just started using this the other day just as an quick UI for ollama and I was blown away at how many features it has and i think the interface is well done. It’s really a great tool so far and I’ll definitely be using it more going forward!

I know you solved it but for anyone that finds this later this feature/behavior is typically called “NAT Hairpin” in case you are looking for a setting to enable or disable, hope this helps!

Just to add what others have said, the temp you dry at is as important if not more important than time and different for each type of plastic. If you don’t have it hot enough (typically near the glass transition temperature of the plastic) then the moisture is not able to escape the plastic.

Cool project as well, I have wanted to do the same!

Ah yeah that is good, just making sure because it has caused me a lot of strange issues hah.

One thing that prob doesn’t matter but I usually dry PETG at 55 or 60, not sure how much of a difference that will make, 51 might be warm enough though. From what I have learned, it has to be warm enough that the moisture can escape the plastic (usually just below the glass transition temp) so you might try turning it up a bit if nothing else works because the moisture might not be escaping.

A lot of good avi e from others but definitely don’t discount drying it out, especially if you live somewhere that the air RH is over 20% as it will definitely suck it out of the air and act all kinds of odd in my experience.

Lots of good recommendations here, my usual recommendation is that if you want 3d printing for a hobby to get a Bambu or similar because they just function out of the box for basically all materials. If you want 3d printing to be the hobby then a Prusa or Voron as others have said, way more tinkering to be had. Both are lots of fun though!

Glad to help! Mixing colors shouldn’t be an issue, I have done it in the past, also have mixed PA and PA-CF in the past without issue. I bet you could even find a tent with a window and run a PTFE tube to a dry box outside the tent then you could pull the first color out and put the second one in without having to open the tent.

Also, just to say it out loud I would definitely test the strength of the layer adhesion (especially between the colors since they might have different additives) for anything structural, especially if you might get injured if it fails, just to be double safe heh.

Last, at least where I am, PA is significantly more expensive than ASA or PETG so might be worth looking at those for at least prototypes of the parts. For example, I typically use PLA to prototype ASA parts, has usually been fine to swap it out with just minor tolerance adjustments and it’s way cheaper to print 50 versions in PLA while I’m working out the design and then I print the final ones in ASA or whatever.

I have printed PA and tent idea will probably work but the other person is not kidding, PA is very finicky. Plan on printing PA directly from a dry box as even sitting on the printer will ruin a roll of it if you live somewhere with more than like 20% humidity outside, also make sure your dryer can reach 85c to dry out a spool of PA, even with a dry box I usually dry PA immediately before printing it. As others have mentioned, definitely consider ASA or PETG or maybe even PC (if that printer can print it) where you don’t really need the material properties of PA specifically.

The tent will also probably be important for maintaining temperature of the chamber more than the smell, nylon doesn’t have a ton of odor anyway. You may need to put a blanket on it, you probably won’t need a chamber heater since nylon needs like a 65c bed or more, just make sure to pre-heat the chamber first by turning the bed on, I usually let mine warm for 20 min or more. It is alap important to keep the temps stable as nylon also warps easily which can cause it to pop off the bed while printing too So make sure the tent is sealed and try not to open it.

Sounds like an interesting project though, best of luck!

+1 for Raindrop, that app is amazing, I keep watching for a self-hosted version/alternative that is as good and they are getting closer. The killer feature for me is being able to highlight stuff and then when you visit the site again you see what you have highlighted (in addition to saving them elsewhere). I also pay for premium because it’s great, I don’t use a ton of the pro features either.

So if I understand this right you will need to change the network on the port attached to the synology in your UniFi configuration or set the vlan tag in the synology OS, I would do the former. It sounds like you just added a second network/vlan to the existing interface which means you actually created a trunk and are getting the old network untagged and the new network with vlan tags which the synology is dropping. Synology OS also doesn’t really support trunked ports through the UI (even though it does support a port that only uses a vlan tag) so it’s much easier to just leave them untagged.

This is awesome, I look forward to the weekly updates and have found lots of great tools from that. Keep up the awesome work, it is very much appreciated!

So I stared at this for a while, particularly the pattern of the seam, I have a few questions. What type of infill are you using? how many outer wall loops? How much infill overlap (or whatever it is called)?

Also what happens if you rotate the part on the bed 90 degrees so the seam is on a different axis? Or maybe 45 degrees? This will make sure it’s not some sort of mechanical issue in one direct that shows up in this specific situation.

I know that all seems random but those are what I would check hah.

I think what that person is saying is that in your example the left part would probably be more durable because it is flexible and that the part on the right is less durable but more rigid, basically saying your result is expected and makes sense if you are wanting durability over rigidity.

I think that the part that is unclear is that OP is using durability, rigidity, and strength as they are defined by material science not in common English and they way they differ in definition makes that comment make sense. I’m not a material scientist though so I could be wrong.

I hope that is correct and makes sense hah!

Yep definitely agree with all of this here, my friends and I have been saying the same things about Prusa too, they need to innovate or drop their prices in 2024.

I am also a big oss supporter but the user experience of the Bambu ecosystem is really great, lately it has basically become the same argument as iPhone vs Android.

To sum it up, I usually tell people that while both work, if your interest in the hobby is in the things that come off the printer then get a Bambu, if your interest is in tinkering and optimizing the printer then get a Prusa or something.

I have a mk3s that is modded and an X1C and I always reach for the X1 because prints basically always work in any material without changing settings beyond infill/strength etc, I don’t even calibrate anything on it anymore, their auto calibrate function is extremely good and I have used it with PLA,PETG,ASA,ABS, PA/Nylon, PC, PLA/PETG/PA-CF, PLA+wood, and even TPU. The Prusa does well but it is definitely more finicky but I’m definitely a core-xy convert now so my next printer will be a core-xy because the accuracy is so much better for tall and square objects especially.