If your card has an x4 pinout, then it probably needs the additional bandwidth. Plugging it into an x1 slot (if it was possible) would slow down the network traffic. Get a better motherboard with an x4 slot on it so you can use the hardware you want. or find something else that will fit your computer.

Honestly even the 1Gb quad port card I have requires an x4 slot, although I saw some dual-port 2.5Gb x1 cards on ebay. Maybe you could just use two of those?

Even the older versions work pretty well, depending on the features you need. I use it for all my 3D modeling, I could never get the hang of other CAD software but this one just “makes sense” to me. I even used it last year to create a model of a trailer I wanted to build, worked out the finer details of how everything would fit together and some options like adding ramps, and once we got to the point of building the trailer it was just a matter of copying the dimensions and cutting out all the steel.

Yeah? OK well it’s certainly worth taking a closer look at, and I was also doing some reading on Yacy. I’ve run one in the past called mnogosearch, with a lot of customization, but it would be nice to get into a community project like this.

But is it decentralized? Do the results from multiple spiders get added to give everyone the same quality searches or do I need to scan the whole internet myself?

[edit] I was looking at this earlier and couldn’t find the info. Started searching again just now and found it immediately… of course… (The answer is YES)

Yep, that’s exactly what I was looking at (https://github.com/searx/searx). As I said, it was a QUICK dive but the wording was enough to make me shy away from it. For all the years I’ve been running servers, I won’t put up anything that requires the latest/greatest of any code because that’s where about 90% of the zero-days seem to come from. Almost all the big ones I’ve seen in the last few years where things that made me panic until I realized that oh, if your updates are more than a year old then none of this affects you. And the one that DID affect me had already been updated through a security release.

I just did a quick dive into this and have some concerns. SearX appears to no longer be maintained and was last updated three years ago. SearXNG was forked to use more recent libraries but there were concerns that those are not always stable or fully vetted. There were also concerns that SearXNG did not follow the same concerns for user privacy. It’s a shame that SearX shut down, that one actually sounds like a project I would have jumped on.

Wasn’t there an issue with 133 on Youtube? Did that get fixed yet?

So to start with, you mentioned the underextrusion on a previous print. Seems like a good starting point, when was the last time you checked your E-steps? Basically you want to disconnect the bowden tube from the hotend, extrude out a short amount of filament and mark its position, then extrude 100mm of filament and measure how much actually came out. From there, there is a formula to adjust the E-steps on the printer. Ideally you should have exactly 100mm come out but there’s a good chance you’re going to have less than this. You can also make some adjustment to this from your slicer (in the material flow section) but that can cause various other problems, so ultimately you’ll want to get this value corrected in the printer itself.

While the bowden tube is disconnected, this is a good time to try doing a cold-pull. Heat the hotend up to around 200C again, stick some scrap filament into it so it just starts to push filament out the bottom, then let the hotend cool back down to near 160C (or maybe even cooler, but this is a good start). Pull the blob of filament out of the hotend, and you should have a bullet-shaped plug on the end of it. Look this over to see if there is any burnt filament, contaminants, or anything else that looks weird. If you see obvious contaminants then this is likely causing your underextrusion. After doing this, you should also check the nozzle itself, sometimes as they wear out a bit of the brass gets pushed over and blocks the flow. Always keep spare nozzles on hand, they wear out faster than anything else.

And one more thing before reassembling… Check the extruder itself. After some time it is common for the brass gear to get clogged up with filament or simply have the teeth wear down, especially from some of the fancy filaments like wood, glow-in-the-dark, or even the metallics. However the results of these problems should be fairly obvious from a clicking in the extruder while printing. Clean out any obvious filament remains, or you can get a pack of replacement gears pretty cheap.

When you are ready to reassemble the bowden tubing, check the fittings at both ends. These wear out easily, so you may see signs that the tubing have been shifting back and forth. These really need to prevent any movement in the bowden tubing, so if you’re going to order parts anyway, get a pack of these to hand on hand. Bad fittings can cause serious underextrusion any place the extruder reverses directions like at the end of a wall. but the wall itself should lay down fairly cleanly.

Hope that gives you some ideas to run with. Some of this will depend on the specific model of Ender you have, but if it was working fine and just suddenly started having problems then something blocking the filament flow is at the top of the list of possibilities.

22:57:20 up 70 days, 16:04, 21 users, load average: 1.10, 1.14, 1.02

Honestly if you were expecting a drive failure in three years, you probably have some other problem. The SSD in my desktop is clocking 7.3 years and I never shut down my machines except to reboot. On my servers, I have run used HDDs from ebay for up to ten years (only retired for upgrades). My NAS is currently running a mixture of used drives from Ebay and some refurbs from Amazon, and I don’t anticipate seeing any issues for at least a few more years.

More drives also equals larger power consumption so you would need a larger battery backup.

It also means more components prone to failure which increases your chance of losing data. More drives means more moving parts and electrical connections including data and power cables, backplanes, and generated heat that you need to cool down.

I’d be more concerned over how many failures you’re seeing that makes you think smaller drives would be the better option? I have historically used old drives from ebay or manufacturer refurbs, and even the worst of those have been reliable enough to only have to replace drives once every year or two. With RAID6 or raidz2 you should be plenty secure during a rebuild to prevent data loss. I wouldn’t consider using a lot of little drives unless it’s the only option I had or if someone gave them away for free.

Yeah I figured there would be multiple answers for you. Just keep in mind that you DO want to get it fixed at some point to use the disk id instead of the local device name. That will allow you to change hardware or move the whole array to another computer.

Are you sure about that? Ever hear about this supposed predictable network names in recent linux versions? Yeah those can change too. I was trying to set up a new firewall with two internal NICs plus a 4-port card, and they kept moving around. I finally figured out that if I cold-booted the NICs would come up in one order, and if I warm-booted they would come up in a completely different order (like the ports on the card would reverse which order they were detected). This was completely the fault of systemd because when I installed an older linux and used udev to map the ports, it worked exactly as predicted. These days I trust nothing.

OP – if your array is in good condition (and it looks like it is) you have an option to replace drives one by one, but this will take some time (probably over a period of days). The idea is to remove a disk from the pool by its old name, then re-add the disk under the corrected name, wait for the pool to rebuild, then do the process again with the next drive. Double-check, but I think this is the proper procedure…

zpool offline poolname /dev/nvme1n1p1

zpool replace poolname /dev/nvme1n1p1 /dev/disk/by-id/drivename

Check zpool status to confirm when the drive is done rebuilding under the new name, then move on to the next drive. This is the process I use when replacing a failed drive in a pool, and since that one drive is technically in a failed state right now, this same process should work for you to transfer over to the safe names. Keep in mind that this will probably put a lot of strain on your drives since the contents have to be rebuilt (although there is a small possibility zfs may recognize the drive contents and just start working immediately?), so be prepared in case a drive does actually fail during the process.

One promising item I found are some json files from Reuters…

This one provides info on the candidates and the key for state ID’s: https://graphics.thomsonreuters.com/data/2024/us-elections/production/events/20241105/metadata.json

This one seems like it will provide the ballot counts(0) and possibly any declared winners(1): https://graphics.thomsonreuters.com/data/2024/us-elections/production/events/20241105/summary-votes/president.json

Of course I won’t know anything for sure until tomorrow evening when states start releasing their counts, but I went ahead and wrote up some code to use the files. It’s something at least, and the Reuters data should be fairly timely. I hope to play around with the collected info in real time, then maybe next election I can re-use the same code.

Yeah I found the same on the AP data. I also found that reddit thread, but haven’t been able to find a valid URL for this year’s election. Maybe they don’t make it available until voting starts?

Hmm good idea, I’ll take a look into that!

“For only $1000 in bitcoin we will decrypt your files until the next time we fsck you over.”

Nice, I hadn’t heard of this one!

If you want to do it right, try to get a static IP (you may need to get a business account). If your provider doesn’t provide IPv6 to static IPs, go to some place like Hurricane Electric and get a free IPv6 range pointed to your IPv4 static address.

Alternatively, you might do a search for any DDNS services that provide IPv6 (I’m not sure if any do?), then that service will fllow your residential address when it changes. Either way I think you’ll have some additional costs you need to weigh against your current hosting provider.

Sorry, just because you’re not capable enough to work with something that wasn’t completely fine-tuned for you at the factory doesn’t mean many of the rest of us have any problems with these machines. I do manual bed leveling and I can walk away from my printer for a year, turn it on, and pop out as good of print as the previous time it was used. How well does your “real” printer work after a year of neglect and with all the fancy gizmos turned off?